Chaque déplacement dans les Vosges est promesse de découvertes et de rencontres marquantes. Mon dernier voyage à Gérardmer a commencé par un retour à mes jeunes années.
Nous sommes Place Albert-Ferry, face au manège. Nos retrouvailles ont lieu Chez Mémé, un commerce qui m’avait échappé. Il a moins de cinq ans il est vrai et me paraît dissimulé par terrasse et auvent. Nous sommes dans l’univers d’Adeline Fays-Bernardin, une trentenaire au minois malicieux. Cette ancienne serveuse a réalisé un joli rêve : ouvrir et animer un établissement hors du temps, un café – restaurant – épicerie au parfum d’antan.
Avant, il y avait ici un magasin de souvenirs. Aujourd’hui, c’est un lieu de souvenirs de jeunesse qui parlent à plusieurs générations. Adeline collectionne les porte-clefs de longue date. Son mari Olivier Lapôtre, qui officie au Collet, hôtel – chalet *** de Xonrupt – Longemer, les boîtes. La propriétaire gérante a fait de l’endroit une maison heureuse qui renvoie immédiatement à nos chers commerces de proximités d’hier. Le seuil franchi, nous sommes attirés par le linéaire de bonbons et friandises. Mes consœurs ont les yeux qui pétillent en voyant les paquets Tang, la boisson en poudre des années 80 et 90 quasiment introuvable en France désormais. Je considère les Treets ramenés à la vie l’an dernier par Lutti après avoir disparu en 1986. Mon péché mignon mais un peu cher à mon goût. Autre revenu, le Malakoff, la barre chocolatée inventée en 1855…Et puis le roudoudou, la paille de sucre, les graines de tournesol, la souris au caramel et encore le Coco Boer que Renaud est venu chercher ici. Adeline voulait permettre l’achat à la pièce, comme cela se faisait autrefois. Pour quelques dizaines de centimes, on repart avec un Malabar. Les friands de sucettes peuvent encore s’offrir le présentoir du Pierrot Gourmand. La bonne surprise, c’est que des collégiens viennent s’approvisionner en sucreries.
On serait donc chez l’épicier des années 1950 à 70 sur les traces de produits disparus…Jeux de cartes, bons points, avions en kit, colle parfumée, yoyos… Adeline travaille entre autres avec le fabricant Marc Vidal. Rétro aussi, les poignées de porte d’une entreprise danoise. Outre les produits de nos tendres années pérennisés ou réactualisés par des sociétés audacieuses, Chez Mémé reconstitue le décor d’une échoppe fourre-tout, entre rubans, boîtes de lessive (pleines), contenants métalliques fatigués, tout ce que la tenancière a chiné à ce jour. La salle est réservée à la table. Une vitrine réfrigérée attire l’attention. Un peu OVNI, un peu juke-box, un présentoir design à pâtisseries maison. Justement, je me laisse tenter par une crème de myrtilles arrosée d’un expresso noisette sur vaisselle d’une autre époque forcément. Adeline et sa fille prennent la pose au fond, devant un mur de pendules ménagères. Je reconnais la table rouge de mes parents jeunes mariés.
En entrant dans ce commerce atypique, je ne me sentais pas du tout dépaysé. Je vis aussi parmi les objets d’hier et consulte l’heure sur des cadrans toujours vaillants. J’ai ressenti ici du bonheur. Le vintage, c’est un temps finalement pas si lointain et porteur d’insouciance. Mais il me fallait d’abord savoir qui était Mémé. C’est la grand-mère d’Adeline, une Géromoise nonagénaire aujourd’hui. Il se dit que la vieille dame avait le sourire en fréquentant le café -épicerie.
Et que vous ayez un besoin pressant ou non, passez donc par les toilettes, qui méritent aussi le détour. Mais on se demande ce qu’un téléviseur seventies y fait, face à une collection de… Il faut aller voir !
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